Instructions for Converting

Logitech Quickcam Pro 9000 for Telescope Use

<Original Pro 9000......Modified for Telescope Use>

by Gary Honis


The new Logitech Quickcam Pro 9000 has some specifications and features that may provide improvements for planetary, lunar and solar imaging. Most notable is its 2 megapixel imaging chip and video resolution of 1600 X 1200 pixels and ability to capture via USB 2.0 at 5 frames per second uncompressed. The Pro 9000 is widely becoming available at many retailers since its introduction in June 2007 and is priced at less than $99.


The easiest way to convert a webcam for telescope use is by purchasing a 1.25 inch adapter that can be screwed into the webcam, after the webcam's lens is unscrewed. Unfortunately, the Logitech Pro 9000 has an auto focus feature and its lens is not screw mounted. Instead, the lens is mounted in plastic housing (image on left) with two electrical leads that are soldered onto the circuit board. To convert the Pro 9000 for telescope use, these leads must be unsoldered.

Luckily, Logitech has made it very easy to take the Pro 9000 apart. It's circuit board fits nicely with room to spare in a plastic project box readily available from Radio Shack. The T-thread from any camera T-ring can be mounted on the project box along with a T-thread to 1.25 inch adapter and the Fusion is ready for telescope use in any focuser.

USB 2.0 Cable:

The Pro 9000 does have the advantage of having a high speed USB 2.0 interface. The USB cable that comes with the Pro 9000 is six feet long. If this cable length will suit your telescope setup, you can omit the steps below that explain replacement of the USB cable. I use a 20 inch f/4.5 scope for planetary imaging and need a longer USB cable, so in the instructions I detail how to replace the six foot USB cable with a heavier-duty sixteen foot cable. A high quality USB 2.0 High Speed cable is recommended for the replacement.


Very simple tools are needed: Jeweler's screwdriver, razor knife, drill, small drill bit and hot glue gun, soldering iron and wick. Supplies: Superglue and black paint.

Parts used:

Radio Shack Project Enclosure Part No. 270-1802 4"x2"x1": $2.69

Radio Shack 10mm Insulated Standoffs Part No. 276-1381 Package of four: $2.79

Optional: Belkin 16 foot High Speed USB 2.0 Cable Part No. F3U133-16 - Walmart - $13.97

Camera T-ring: $10 to $20

T-ring to 1.25" adapter: $12

Let's Start:

Opening the camera will void your Logitech warranty and you may ruin your webcam. Proceed at your own risk; I am not responsible for any damage to your webcam. That said.......the webcam is very easy to open and you're just mounting it in a plastic box.

Step 1. Remove five screws as shown:

Step 2. Separate the plastic holder bracket by starting at the camera end. You can squeeze the plastic apart sideways if you want to avoid breaking the small plastic loops (one on each side). One of mine broke. These are not needed if you ever want to reuse it since the two plastic halves are screwed together.

Step 3. Hold the black plastic halves apart in order to remove the four screws that attach the camera to the holder bracket:

Step 4.Remove the camera from the holder bracket:

Step 5. Remove two screws from the camera housing:

Step 6. Lift back cover away from front cover:

Step 7: Remove metal slip ring with small driver:


Step 8. Use a small driver to disconnect these two wire connectors:

Step 9. Remove 4 short screws that hold the circuit board to housing:

Step 10. Lift circuit board off housing half:

Step 11. Remove the USB cable ground from the circuit board by applying a soldering iron on the opposite side of the point shown here:

( You can skip this step of removing the ground connection, but it was easier for me to splice the wires with the cable disconnected from the circuit board)


Step 12. As heat is applied with the soldering iron, gently pull off the USB cable:

Step 13. Remove small switch board connector from circuit board with driver:

Step 14. Remove two screws from the circuit board shown below:

Step 15. Use solder wick and solder iron to remove the solder from these two pins:

Step 16. Lift lens off circuit board:

CLICK HERE to continue to Part 2 of Modification.


To My Astrophotography & Digital Imaging Home Page